Finishing

17 May 2022 --- ROUGH DRAFT OF THIS PAGE!

THANKS to Jay Oelrich of American Woolen!!

When our Fabric has been woven, it comes off the loom as "greige" or "loom-state" fabric, and it must be "finished" before it is ready for the tailors.

 

 

 From Jay Oelrich

:Jonathan K. Oelrich
Manager of Finishing and Dyeing
Jay.Oelrich@AmericanWoolen.com
860-684-2766 x133

In order ... 

1. Fulling: using water, soap and mechanical action to condense and strengthen the structure of the fabric and blend the appearance of the weave.
2. Softening: Using a sustainable concept to improve the hand of the fabric. Softener is applied in drying after fulling.
3. Napping: to lift the pile of the fabric which aids in both appearance and weatherproofing.
4. Sponging: to condense and preshrink the fabric to improve handling in making the garment and increase density/durability.  Sponging relaxes the fabric. Sponging involves steam which may causes fibers to fluff up.

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Napping, doublenapping, counternapping, shearing

 

 MidWeight/FullWeight ... napping/shearing MidWeight makes a big difference.

 

Hard/soft water

 

Carbonizing

 

Fulling vs shrinking

 

Relaxing

 

 17 May 2022 --- Ralph